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Buccellati Serenissima, transforming Venetian lace into high jewellery

Serenissima explores Venetian lace through openwork gold, engraving and diamonds within Buccellati’s High Jewellery tradition

Buccellati’s Serenissima collection pays tribute to Venice, transforming Burano lace into High Jewellery with gold and diamonds

With Serenissima, Buccellati returns to one of the most recognisable sources of its creative language: Venetian lace. Introduced in 2026, the High Jewellery collection pays tribute to Venice by translating the lightness, transparency and complexity of Burano lace into gold, diamonds and traditional Maison craftsmanship.

Venice as the starting point

The name Serenissima directly evokes the Republic of Venice and the artistic heritage that developed in the lagoon city over centuries. For Buccellati, however, this is more than an iconographic reference. Burano lace has been one of the historical influences on the Maison’s style since the time of Mario Buccellati.

The challenge lies in transferring qualities such as lightness, transparency and visual flexibility into metal. Gold is treated almost as a textile, reducing its apparent weight and allowing light to pass through an intricate open structure.

Working gold like lace

One of the collection’s defining techniques is Buccellati’s honeycomb workmanship. Thin sheets of gold are pierced by hand, with goldsmiths using small saws to refine individual cells and create an open, regular structure.

Rather than simply reproducing the appearance of Burano lace as decoration, the process echoes the way a lace surface is progressively constructed. The resulting metal retains the material value of gold while acquiring the visual delicacy of a woven pattern.

Other techniques from Buccellati’s historical vocabulary are used alongside the openwork, including modellato and rigato engraving and finishes designed to create contrasts between matt and polished surfaces.

Diamonds, white gold and yellow gold

Serenissima includes necklaces, bracelets, earrings and other High Jewellery creations. White and yellow gold are used separately or together, while diamonds form leaves, garlands and natural motifs within the open structures.

Some sets interpret the lace theme primarily through white gold, while others alternate white and yellow gold to create greater visual depth. Coloured gemstones also appear within the wider collection, although the dialogue between engraving, openwork and precious metal remains central.

Giudecca and variations on the Venetian theme

Among the interpretations within the collection is Giudecca, a set comprising a necklace, bracelet and earrings. Its design combines elongated white-gold elements set with diamonds and yellow-gold garlands featuring rose-cut diamonds.

Rigato engraving runs along the sides of the pieces, helping create contrast between different surfaces, while polished elements introduce points of reflected light. The connection with Venice is therefore expressed through materials, techniques and names rather than through overtly literal symbols.

A campaign focused on lightness

In 2026 Buccellati accompanied Serenissima with a photographic campaign shot by Nathaniel Goldberg. Argentine designer and artist Conie Vallese appears as the central figure in the images.

The black-and-white studio portraits adopt a deliberately restrained approach, focusing attention on the relationship between jewellery, skin and movement. In doing so, the campaign highlights the same qualities around which the collection is constructed: transparency, lightness and flexibility.

The past as a technique rather than a quotation

Serenissima illustrates a particular relationship between heritage and contemporary design. Venice is not used simply as a narrative backdrop. Instead, Buccellati draws on techniques and artisanal principles that can be reinterpreted through High Jewellery.

The reference to lace therefore becomes primarily a method of construction. Gold and gemstones are worked to create structures resembling fabric, bringing techniques preserved by generations of Maison artisans into a contemporary collection.

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Buccellati, Serenissima High Jewellery Collection

28 Settembre 2026
© Redazione MED Yachting
Buccellati Serenissima, transforming Venetian lace into high jewellery
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